Nestled along the Black Sea coast, Trabzon is a city where history, culture, and modernity collide. Known for its lush green landscapes, ancient monasteries, and bustling bazaars, this Turkish gem offers a unique blend of traditions that reflect its strategic position between Europe and Asia. In today’s globalized world, Trabzon’s culture serves as a microcosm of larger geopolitical and social dynamics—migration, identity, and the tension between preservation and progress.
Trabzon’s history is a layered narrative of empires. Founded as Trapezus by Greek colonists in the 8th century BCE, it later became a critical outpost of the Byzantine Empire. The iconic Hagia Sophia of Trabzon (not to be confused with its Istanbul counterpart) stands as a testament to this era, blending Byzantine architecture with Ottoman modifications.
Under Ottoman rule, Trabzon flourished as a trade hub, connecting Silk Road merchants with European markets. The city’s Atatürk Pavilion showcases this Ottoman legacy, while the Trabzon Castle whispers tales of medieval warfare and diplomacy.
One of the most poignant aspects of Trabzon’s history is its Pontic Greek heritage. Before the population exchanges of the 1920s, the region was home to a thriving Greek community. Today, remnants of this culture survive in local cuisine (like kuymak, a cheesy cornmeal dish) and folk music. The Sumela Monastery, perched dramatically on a cliff, remains a pilgrimage site for Greeks and a symbol of shared heritage.
Like many regions straddling East and West, Trabzon grapples with balancing tradition and globalization. The younger generation, influenced by social media and urban migration, often adopts a more cosmopolitan outlook. Yet, the city’s horon dances—a whirl of synchronized steps to the beat of the kemençe (a traditional fiddle)—still dominate weddings and festivals.
Trabzon is a stronghold of conservative values, with Islam playing a central role. The Gülbahar Hatun Mosque is a spiritual anchor, yet the city also embraces secular traditions. This duality mirrors Turkey’s broader struggle between secularism and religiosity—a tension amplified by global debates over multiculturalism and nationalism.
Trabzon’s cuisine is a love letter to the Black Sea’s bounty. Hamsi (anchovies) is the star—fried, baked, or stuffed into bread. The region’s pide (boat-shaped flatbread) rivals its more famous cousin, the lahmacun. For dessert, Laz böreği, a custard-filled pastry, is a must-try.
Turkish coffee is a national obsession, but Trabzon adds its own twist. The Trabzon kahvesi is thicker and stronger, often served with lokum (Turkish delight). Coffeehouses remain male-dominated spaces, reflecting broader gender dynamics in rural Turkey—a topic of heated debate in the #MeToo era.
Trabzon has long been a crossroads for migrants. Today, its diaspora spans Germany, Russia, and beyond. The city’s remittance economy highlights the globalized nature of labor, while returnees bring back foreign influences, reshaping local culture.
The Black Sea’s ecosystem is under threat from pollution and overfishing. Trabzon’s fishermen, who’ve relied on hamsi for generations, now face dwindling catches. This mirrors worldwide anxieties about sustainability and food security.
With its UNESCO-listed sites, Trabzon is a rising star on the tourist map. Yet, the influx of visitors strains infrastructure and risks commodifying culture. The debate over responsible tourism is as relevant here as in Venice or Bali.
Every January, villagers don costumes and masks for Kalandar, a pagan-rooted celebration co-opted by Christianity and Islam. It’s a vivid example of cultural syncretism—a rebuke to purist ideologies gaining traction globally.
The kemençe isn’t just an instrument; it’s a voice for the Pontic people. In an age of cultural erasure, Trabzon’s musicians use folk tunes to assert identity, much like the Sami in Scandinavia or the Kurds in Turkey.
As Trabzon navigates the 21st century, it stands at a crossroads. Will it become a homogenized tourist stop, or can it preserve its soul while embracing progress? The answer lies in the hands of its people—the fishermen, the baristas, the dancers, and the dreamers.
For now, the horon circles on, the kemençe plays, and the Black Sea’s waves keep whispering their ancient secrets.