Nestled in the northwestern part of Turkey, Eskişehir is a city that effortlessly bridges the gap between its rich historical roots and a forward-thinking, cosmopolitan vibe. Often overshadowed by Istanbul or Ankara, Eskişehir is a hidden gem that offers a fascinating glimpse into Turkey’s evolving cultural landscape.
Eskişehir’s name literally translates to "Old City," but don’t let that fool you—this place is anything but outdated. The city is home to a thriving student population, thanks to Anadolu University and Osmangazi University, which infuse the area with youthful energy and creativity. Walk through the streets, and you’ll see centuries-old Ottoman architecture standing proudly beside modern art installations and trendy cafés.
One of the city’s most iconic spots is Odunpazarı, a historic district with colorful Ottoman-era houses that have been transformed into boutique hotels, art galleries, and museums. The Eskişehir Modern Glass Art Museum here is a testament to how the city embraces contemporary art while honoring its past.
In an era where mass production dominates, Eskişehir has become a stronghold for traditional Turkish crafts. The city is famous for its meerschaum (lületaşı) carving, a delicate white mineral mined locally and transformed into intricate pipes and sculptures. Artisans in Odunpazarı still practice this centuries-old craft, attracting collectors worldwide.
Another cultural staple is Sivrihisar kilims (handwoven rugs), which reflect Anatolian motifs and storytelling traditions. These aren’t just souvenirs—they’re pieces of history, each weave representing a narrative passed down through generations.
Eskişehir’s food scene is a delicious reflection of its multicultural heritage. The city’s signature dish, çibörek (a crispy, deep-fried meat pastry), was brought by Crimean Tatars and remains a local obsession. Pair it with a glass of boza, a fermented wheat drink that dates back to the Ottoman Empire, and you’ve got a taste of Eskişehir’s soul.
For something sweet, met helvası, a buttery semolina dessert, is a must-try. The city’s cafés and bakeries also serve as social hubs, where debates about politics, art, and global issues unfold over endless cups of Turkish tea.
As climate change dominates headlines, Eskişehir stands out for its green initiatives. The Porsuk River, which flows through the city, has been revitalized into a picturesque promenade lined with cafes and pedestrian bridges. The local government’s focus on eco-friendly public transport, including an extensive tram network, makes Eskişehir a model for sustainable urban living.
With a large student population, Eskişehir is a hotspot for intellectual discourse. Universities here host conferences on everything from artificial intelligence to human rights, fostering a culture of open dialogue. In a country where political tensions often make headlines, Eskişehir’s academic environment offers a space for nuanced discussions about Turkey’s role in global affairs.
Every year, the city hosts an array of cultural festivals that draw artists and performers from around the world. The International Eskişehir Festival showcases theater, music, and dance, blending Turkish traditions with global influences. It’s a reminder of how art can transcend borders—a timely message in an era of rising nationalism.
Graffiti and murals adorn many of Eskişehir’s walls, often addressing themes like migration, gender equality, and freedom of expression. Local collectives use public art to spark conversations about Turkey’s societal challenges, proving that creativity is a powerful tool for activism.
As the city grows, so does the tension between development and preservation. New shopping malls and high-rises are rising, but grassroots movements are pushing to protect historic neighborhoods like Odunpazarı. The question remains: Can Eskişehir modernize without losing its soul?
For now, the answer seems to lie in the city’s ability to adapt while staying true to its roots. Whether it’s through art, food, or sustainable urban planning, Eskişehir continues to carve out its unique place in Turkey—and the world.